After one of the coldest nights you will ever experience in your lifetime (waking up every hour seeing your breath and being completely miserable) the sun would finally break and Saturday would begin!  As you lie in your sleeping bag you don’t know if you’ll be better off lying there frozen or getting out in the cold to start a fire.  After coming to a full conscious state (i.e. growling stomach) you throw on some long johns and put on your frozen boots and step foot into the -3 degree weather.  Finding wood was always a fun thing to do during the Klondike Derby.  Their usually isn’t any and it’s all buried by the 3 feet of snow blanketing the ground.  Once you grab a few scraps of kindling you manage to get an embarrassing fire going.  No worries, at the grand age of 14 you’ve learned a thing or two about pyrotechnics!  With a little lighter fluid and newspaper you’ve managed to get a healthy 3 foot flame of integrity going.  Once the coals get warm you throw some snow in a pan and heat up the water for some warm hot chocolate and instant oatmeal. 

     9:00 AM comes and the excitement begins.  It’s time for the official Klondike Derby winter games to begin.  The famous human dog sled race, the cross country ski race, fire building, snow tug of war and scavenger hunt.  My favorite was the human dog sled race.  This separated the men from the boys!  We would hand make a dog sled out of wood and attach some old 1980’s skies from the local thrift store to the base for easy gliding.  We would then attach rope with loops to the front of the sled where each boy would securely fasten themselves in position and run like dogs desperately across the barren lands for a half of a mile.

     About 12:00 PM we would wrap up the games with the snow tug of war youth against the leaders and of course the youth would always win!   An award ceremony would be held and the victorious scout troops would be awarded medals and we would pack up and go home.  I will always have a special place in my heart for the Klondike Derby.  If you ever have an opportunity to attend the Klondike Derby I would strongly recommend not turning it down.   It by far was one of my favorite campouts when I was a kid.  I can only imagine how rewarding it was for the scout masters and leaders.

author Sam Jensen  president of www.mycamplife.com

Expect the Worst
In general, it’s wise to choose a tent that’s designed to withstand the worst possible conditions you think you’ll face. For instance, if you’re a summer car camper in a region where weather is predictable, an inexpensive family or all purpose tent will likely do the trick–especially if a vehicle is nearby and you can make a mad dash for safety when bad weather swoops in! If you’re a backpacker, alpine climber or bike explorer, or if you like to car camp in all seasons, you’ll want to take something designed to handle more adversity.

Three- and Four-Season Tents
For summer, early fall and late spring outings, choose a three-season tent. At minimum, a quality three season tent will have lightweight aluminum poles, a reinforced floor, durable stitching, and a quality rain-fly. Some three-season tents offer more open-air netting and are more specifically designed for summer backpacking and other activities. Many premium tents will feature pre-sealed, taped seams and a silicone-impregnated rain-fly for enhanced waterproofness.

For winter camping or alpine travel, go with a four season model. Because they typically feature more durable fabric coatings, as well as more poles, four-season tents are designed to handle heavy snowfall and high winds without collapsing. Of course, four-season tents exact a weight penalty of about 10 to 20 percent in trade for their strength and durability. They also tend to be more expensive.

Domes and Tunnels
Tents are broadly categorized into two types, freestanding, which can stand up on their own, and those that must be staked down in order to stand upright. Freestanding tents often incorporate a dome-shaped design, and most four-season tents are constructed this way because a dome leaves no flat spots on the outer surface where snow can collect. Domes are also inherently stronger than any other design. Meanwhile, many three-season models employ a modified dome configuration called a tunnel. These are still freestanding, but they require fewer poles than a dome, use less fabric, and typically have a rectangular floor-plan that offers less storage space than a dome configuration. Many one and two-person tents are not freestanding, but they make up for it by being more lightweight. Because they use fewer poles, they can also be quicker to set up than a dome.

Size Matters
Ask yourself how many people you’d like to fit in your fabric hotel now and in the future. For soloists and minimalists, check out one-person tents. If you’re a mega-minimalist, or if you have your eye on doing some big wall climbs, a waterproof-breathable bivy sack is the ticket. Some bivy sacks feature poles and stake points to give you a little more breathing room. Also, if you don’t need bug protection and you want to save weight, check out open-air shelters.

Families who plan on car camping in good weather can choose from a wide range of jumbo-sized tents that will accommodate all your little ones with room to spare. A wide range of capacities is also available for three- and four-season backpacking and expedition tents. Remember, though, the bigger the tent you buy, the heavier it will be, although it’s easy to break up the tent components among several people in your group. It’s also helpful to compare the volume and floor-space measurements of models you’re considering.

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SETTING UP CAMP

1 Arrive early. Give yourself plenty of time to set up camp before dark.

2 Choose a level spot and sweep it free of debris. If you must sleep on an incline, sleep with your head uphill.

3 Look up! Falling rocks, pinecones and dead tree branches can kill.

4 Don’t park or camp under a lone tree, especially on high ground. It (and you) will be a lightning rod in the event of an electrical storm.

5 Unroll your sleeping bag right away, so that when it’s bedtime, the bag has lofted up and is ready to offer full insulation. The same goes for your self-inflating sleeping pad.

6 Stake your tent down. Even a minor storm can blow your tent away with all its contents — including small children.

7 In sandy or loose soil, put large rocks on top of tent stakes to hold them in.

8 In rocky soil, where tent stakes won’t take, use rocks inside the corners of your tent to anchor it securely.

9 Check for potential hazards such as anthills, wasp nests, or piles of rock, branches, bark or leaves that snakes or scorpions could call home.

10 Never make camp (tent or trailer) in a natural watercourse. A rainstorm, even miles away, can turn your camp into a raging river.

11 Camp where the morning sun will strike your tent or trailer. It makes those chilly mornings a bit warmer.

12 The bottom of a valley or canyon will
be colder and damper in the morning than the side of the valley. The ridge tops will almost assuredly be more exposed to weather. Try to find something in between.

13 People love camping near water, but if the water isn’t moving, it’s likely to have a large insect population hovering about.

14 If at all possible, determine the prevailing direction of the afternoon-evening wind. Locate your tent or trailer upwind of your intended campfire so smoke doesn’t blow toward and fill your sleeping quarters.

15 Always use a ground cloth (some companies call it a tent footprint). It’s another layer of insulation and moisture control, and it will protect your tent floor from excessive wear and tear.

16 In hot, buggy weather, orient your tent door toward the prevailing wind to help cool the tent interior. It also helps keep mosquitoes away from the door — they tend to gather in the eddy of the downwind side of an object.

17 If the prevailing wind is strong or stormy weather is predicted, it’s better to orient the sharper, more aerodynamic end of your tent (often the rear) toward the breeze. This will better deflect the breeze and help keep rain from blowing into the door.

18 Make camp no closer than 200 feet from water (lake, stream or river) to minimize water quality impact from your latrine or dirty dishwater.

GEAR AND CLOTHING

19 Practice setting up a new tent before leaving home.

20 Seal the seams of your tent — you’ll have a drier night. Some tents come with a tube of sealer. It’s also available at outdoor-equipment retailers.

21 I prefer aluminum over fiberglass tent poles, and flush-joint over collar-joint poles. Aluminum is more durable. Flush-joint poles slide through tent-pole sleeves more easily, making set up and take down quicker.

22 Slightly polish the connecting joints of your tent poles with super-fine-grit wet sandpaper for an easier fit.

23 If an aluminum pole joint jams, gently heat one side so it will expand.

24 If you’re on a budget, don’t “cheap out” on tents or sleeping bags. Trim money elsewhere, because mistakes with these two most critical items can be
disastrous.

25 Some tents are overrated in sleeping
capacity. Three feet of width per person is ideal for a comfortable sleep.

26 Clean, dry and air your tent after each trip. It will last longer and not mildew.

27 Check your tent for contents and condition prior to each trip. Give yourself enough time to replace or repair parts if needed.

28 Shop for a tent with a vestibule. The vestibule offers protected space for boots or wet gear just outside the tent.

29 Shop for a tent with a gear loft. It’s a great place to dry socks and other wet clothing if the weather is stormy.

30 Bugs are attracted to brightly colored clothing.

31 Stick to high-quality wool-blend socks for hiking. Cotton traps sweat next to your skin.

32 Leave those leftover rock concert T-shirts at home. Invest in high-quality “wicking” or “hydrophobic” (pulls moisture away from your skin) base-layer wear.

33 Layering is the key to proper camping attire. Have a base layer, a mid-layer (insulator such as fleece) and a shell (rain jacket) on hand.

34 Break in those new boots long (weeks) before you hike a mile in them. This can be done by wearing them for a couple hours a day around the house.

35 Always carry a spare pair of bootlaces.

36 Unless you’re backpacking or going on extensive day hikes, you may not need expensive boots. Buy good trail shoes, though — your feet are among your most important assets when camping.

37 A hat is essential. It keeps the sun off your head and face during warm weather, and keeps heat from escaping from your head (a prime source of body heat loss) during cold weather.

38 Never, ever leave home without high-quality sunglasses. Throw those cheap dime-store shades away. Your retinas will be damaged by the sun’s radiation without proper protection.

39 Keep your stove clean — especially the burners and gas fittings. Clogged burners are inefficient. Dirty fittings can leak and create a fire hazard.

40 Have at least two flashlights, and spare batteries for each.

41 Consider binoculars a basic camping tool. Your trips will be more rewarding if you do.

42 Unless weight is an issue, bring a small hatchet and saw for cutting firewood.

43 Get a collapsible shovel. Uses range from latrine duty to campfire tending.

44 Those little headlamps may look silly, but they’re worth their weight in gold when you need two hands free in the dark.

45 Use stacking storage tubs to organize your camping gear. They also make it easier to transport gear from the house to vehicle to camp.

46 Down sleeping bags are best for insulation, but when wet, can lose loft and heat-retention qualities. Three-season, synthetic-fill bags are generally less expensive and a good choice for family campers.

LEEPING WARM

47 Wear a cap at night. It will help conserve body heat.

48 Don’t go to bed cold. Prior physical activity will start your night warm.

49 Wear a base layer (long underwear) to bed.

50 A sleeping pad is essential for warmth. Without it, heat radiates to the ground and out of your body.

51 Wind steals heat. Keep your tent closed up. If you must, vent the tent on its downwind side.

52 Keep the next day’s clean socks and underwear inside the foot of your sleeping bag. They’ll be warm for the morning.

53 Get a sleeping bag with features such as draft tubes (keeps zippers from leaking warm air) and a collar (helps seal the top of the bag around you).

54 Although it feels warm at first, drinking alcohol just before bedtime actually robs you of body heat later.

CAMP KITCHEN

55 In bear country, cook and eat at least 100 feet from your sleeping area, so no food or drink spills (odors) will bring hungry visitors too close at night.

56 Always hang your food properly or store in lockers (if provided) or out of sight in your vehicle when camping in bear country.

57 Cook on a camp stove. Campfires are difficult to control and more likely to burn food and your fingers.

58 Freeze meat prior to departure. It will stay fresh longer.

59 If you must take glass-bottled beverages, wrap the bottles in aluminum foil or sealed in zip-top plastic bags, so if they break, glass shards don’t find their way onto the ground to harm wildlife.

60 Use or build a windscreen for the stove, it will conserve fuel and shorten cooking times.

61 A tarp strung over (standing room height at least) the camp kitchen keeps falling debris and rain out of food and flame.

62 No fuel-fired stoves, lanterns, heaters or other appliances should be used inside a tent. The tent can burn and fumes can kill.

63 If weight is not an issue, invest in a couple of good cast iron pieces. A deep
frying pan and a Dutch oven can cook 90 percent of camp food.

64 Black-bottomed pots and pans heat up quicker than shiny, reflective ones.

65 Always bring extra fuel for stoves and lanterns.

66 Bring three separate fire-starting devices (lighters, matches, and such), waterproofed or sealed in plastic bags. The idea is that one of them will work, no matter what.

67 Filter, boil or purify all your drinking water unless it comes from a known clean source. No matter how clean the creek looks, it’s not.

68 When packing your food, don’t forget the spices — salt and pepper can liven up any meal.

69 Don’t forget potholders, but if you do, a thick hiking sock will do.

70 Make sure you have a can opener. A knife and a hammer is a dangerous substitute.

SANITATION AND HYGIENE

71 If you are staying in improved campgrounds with trashcans, use them. If you are camping in the backcountry, take out everything you brought in. Leave no trace of your visit.

72 Seal your toilet paper in a big zip-locktype plastic baggie to keep it dry under all conditions. Wet TP doesn’t work.

73 Bring heavy-gauge plastic trash bags and double them so they don’t burst and spill their contents.

74 If you’re RV camping, a pair of long rubber gloves will make dealing with dump stations and your dump valves a lot less disagreeable.

75 Your mother told you so. Washing your hands with hot water and soap before meals or cooking is considered one of the greatest scientific advances in preventative medicine. It’s especially so when camping. If clean water is not expected to be readily available, use one of the disinfecting hand cleaners now commercially available.

76 If sinks aren’t available, excess cooking and dishwater should be disposed of at least 200 feet from the nearest body of water, in soil that drains well.

77 Never dump or bury food scraps. Flies and animals will find it, and so will the next person to camp there.

78 Use biodegradable soap products.

79 If you want to bathe in a river, creek, pond or lake, don’t use soap. Even biodegradable products will leave a residue for a long time.

80 Urinating in the outdoors is relatively eco-friendly, as long as it’s not done anywhere near a camp, trail, body of water or on a plant.

81 If you must “poop” outdoors, do it well away from water sources, trails and campsites. Dig a “cat hole” and bury the waste.

KID TIPS

82 Bring a game of checkers. It’s a simple game and young, old, and in-between can enjoy the action.

83 A good old-fashioned deck of cards is a winner on any camping trip.

84 Spend a night with your kids in the tent in the backyard before their first trip. It’s a good way to familiarize children with sleeping outdoors.

85 Let them bring their own pillows. A little bit of familiarity goes a long way.

86 Give each a flashlight. Teaching them appropriate use of this basic camping tool is a good place to start. It’s also a good“security blanket” at night.

87 Consider battery-powered camp lanterns. No flames and no heat.

88 Dress them as you would yourself, in appropriate layers. Children chill and overheat faster than adults.

89 Break long car rides into segments. Plan stops that have some special interest.

90 Trekking poles, or a hand-carved walking stick for that matter, make hiking easier and more fun for them, too.

91 Pick a trail with a fun destination, such as a pond or beautiful meadow.

92 Give each a camera. Inexpensive, one-time-use cameras are ideal for this.

93 Teach them the basic rules of how not to get lost: Don’t go off alone. Think about where you are. Remember where you’ve been.

94 Teach them the basics of being lost: Stay put. Stay calm. Make noise so searchers can hear you. A whistle on a necklace is a good emergency noise maker for kids.

ODDS AND ENDS

95 Carry a full package of dental floss. It’s better than a toothpick, and is strong enough to work as thread for fabric repairs or as emergency bootlaces.

96 Carry a roll of duct tape. There are at least 101 uses for duct tape, ranging from first aid to tent repair.

97 Bring a compact pair of scissors. It’s good for all kinds of uses — first aid, equipment repairs, all sorts of things.

98 I always bring a small sewing kit. Don’t laugh — try hiking with a blown trouser button.

99 Drink sips of water all day long. You won’t know you’re dehydrated until it’s too late, so prevent it by constantly
rehydrating.

100 Leave boots and shoes outside to keep your tent clean inside. If your tent has no vestibule for cover, slip boots into a trash bag to keep them dry.

101 Plan well. A thoroughly thought-out camping trip has a greater chance of success than a last-minute fling.

SIDE BAR

10 EssentialsThe following 10 items are recognized as standard essentials that should be carried by anyone venturing on a camping trip or long hike.

1 Spare clothing (I carry dry socks and a waterproof shell garment).
2 A good pocketknife.
3 First aid kit.
4 A compass and a map of the area.
5 Extra food (energy bars, trail mix and such).
6 Water (one-liter bottle at least).
7 Matches in waterproof container and cigarette lighter.
8 Fire starter.
9 Flashlight.
10 Spare sunglasses.

I carry a small pack filled with these items, even on day hikes, but have also included: sunscreen, insect repellent, lip balm with sunscreen, chewing gum, binoculars, pencil, notebook, whistle and signal mirror. In addition, I splurged on a handheld weather meter.

Provided by Woodall’s Camping Life Magazine

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Clean the tent by setting it up and wiping it down with a mild soap (liquid hand soap) and lukewarm water solution. Rinse thoroughly and dry completely. Never use detergent, washing machines or dryers because they can damage the tent’s protective coating and seams. After cleaning, be sure the tent is completely dry, especially the heavier, double-stitched areas such as the seams, before storing or mold and mildew are likely to grow.

Clean the tent poles with a soft, dry cloth. This is especially necessary after oceanside camping trips to remove salt spray so the poles don’t corrode or stay gritty.

Clean the zippers with a quick dip in water and then dry them off. This is especially important if you’ve been camping in a location with sand/dirt. If you don’t clean the zippers, the sliders will wear out and eventually the teeth will become inoperable.

Seam Sealing

We recommend use of a sealer such as Kenyon Seam Sealer 3 or McNett Outdoor SeamGrip. Be sure to check directions on the side of container for specifics before beginning the seam sealing process.

Seam sealing should be done in a fully ventilated area. Set the tent up or lay the tent out flat. Taut seams allow for even application and penetration of the sealer.

Decide which seams need to be sealed. For example, seams that will be exposed to rain, runoff, or ground level water are a must for sealing, while seams on uncoated nylon or mesh panels won’t need treatment. You won’t need to seal the seams in the roof or the factory taped seams either. We recommend sealing both floor & fly seams and reinforcements.

Apply sealant to the inside and outside of all exposed seams. Draw or brush the sealant along the seam, spreading it evenly and liberally into all of the needle holes. Several thin layers will work better than one thick layer. Allow 30 minutes to 1 hour for the sealant to completely dry before storing the tent. Twelve hours for SeamGrip®.

Ultraviolet

Ultraviolet damage to tent fabric is caused by excessive exposure to sunlight. While our fabrics are UV resistant, any synthetic fabric is susceptible to ultraviolet degradation. UV damage will cause nylon and polyester to become brittle and tear easily. Once your tent has UV damage, it is non-repairable, but damage can be minimized by erecting tents on sites where exposure to direct sunlight can be avoided. We also recommend that you use the rain fly even on clear days. It acts as a sunscreen to the tent. A rain fly is both easier and less expensive to replace if damaged.

Color Transfer

Due to the nature of tent fabrics, color can transfer from darker fabric to lighter fabric if two colors are in contact over time when wet, damp, or exposed to the combination of moisture and high heat. This does not affect a tent’s performance. To prevent/minimize color transfer from occurring, always make sure that your tent is completely dry prior to packing and storage.

Storage

Make sure the tent is completely dry, then store loosely rolled, in a dry, cool place. To prevent dust from collecting on the tent, cover it with a cloth. This allows the nylon/polyester fabric to breathe.

Ideally, the tent poles should be stored in their fully assembled state. This reduces the tension on the shock cord, prolonging its life. We recommend that the tent bag be used only as a carry sack and not for storage.

General Tips:

Use a ground cloth under the tent whenever possible. If you choose, Eureka! has pre-cut sizes. If not, trace the tent on the ground cloth and cut smaller than the tent footprint to avoid having it act as a water collector. Ground cloths are easier and less expensive to replace than torn tent floors.

Try not to wear shoes inside your tent.

Bring a small rug or mat to put inside the tent door to wipe off mud and catch sand.

Sweep the tent floor daily to prevent damage from stones.

Do not keep food inside the tent. Hungry critters will chew through the tent fabric in search of a snack.

Reference: Eurka!